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SilverStone TJ10 Full Tower
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by Matthew Harris on January 15, 2008 in Full-Tower

Got a hankering for a new case? Been bit by the water cooling bug? Having a bit of trouble reconciling the two? You should have a look at SilverStone’s TJ10B. Despite the nay-sayers claiming it’s not ideal for water-cooling, you might just be surprised!

Introduction

Everyone that’s a PC enthusiast will surely be familiar with the name SilverStone. They make an impressive line of cases and sell an equally impressive line of accessories and power supplies. Today we’re taking a look at the Temjin TJ10, the latest and greatest case in SilverStone’s class leading Temjin line of full tower cases.

Let’s take a quick look at their listed specs:

Model SST-TJ10B (Black)
SST-TJ10S (Silver)
SST-TJ10B-W (Black, With Window)
SST-TJ10S-W (Silver, With Window)
Material Aluminum front panel/door
2.0mm aluminum body
Motherboard SSI, Extended ATX, ATX, Micro ATX
Driver Bay External: 5.25" x 4, 3.5" x1
Internal: 3.5" x 1
Cooling System Front: 1 x 120mm Fan Slot
Rear: 1 x 120mm exhaust fan, 1200RPM, 21 dBA

Side: 1 x 120mm mid-section fan, 1200RPM, 21dBA
Top: 2 x 120mm fan slots
Expansion Slot 7 Total
Front I/O Port USB 2.0 x 2
IEEE1394 x 1
Audio x 1
Mic x 1
Power Supply 1 x Optical PS2 (ATX) or 1 x Redundant PS2
Graphics Card Support for 12" graphics card
Net Weight 13 Kg
Dimension 207mm x 521mm x 644mm

They’ve even come out with their own radiator mount that’s suspiciously similar to one that I created for the TJ09 I reviewed a while back. They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery so I’m not bothered by it, I just hope that this review gives them a few ideas because we’re not putting a mere dual 120 rad into the TJ10, we’re going all out!

The TJ10’s lineage is apparent upon first glance. It’s basically a TJ09 with a revamped front so that there’s a door. When she arrives the door hinges on the right which is sort of unfortunate for people with their PC to their left. We’ll look into that in more detail in a bit.

The roof of the TJ10 has the same mesh grill in the rear and expansion ports in the front as the TJ09. I detailed the expansion ports in greater detail in the TJ09 review so I won’t go over them again other than to list them here: 2 X USB 2.0, 1 X Firewire and Audio out, MIC in. The door to the front hides them when not in use.

The rear of the case has remained largely unchanged. It received new PCI slot covers with added venting and the holes for external plumbing were enlarged and treated to perforated rubber grommets. Other than those changes the rear of the removable motherboard tray is the same as the TJ09 it’s based off of.. I’d still like to see the curved handle to the left of the PCI slot covers moved (re-arched or removed entirely) because it gets in the way of the inner DVI connectors on certain video cards (namely mine!).

I don’t know why the case looks so washed out other than the reflective anodizing playing havoc with the flash on my camera. In person it’s black, everything matches nicely. Looking at the door we see that it looks like the hinges are releasable. Good sign even if it means that you can just get the door out of your way.

A closer look at the door shows that the hinges can indeed be moved from side to side. It also shows that there are small pins that limit the door from over extending which would cause the door to scrape the case front which could royally screw up the anodizing. The upper hinge pin is spring loaded as I’ve handily pointed out. Of course this is all for naught if the case doesn’t have points for the hinges to fit into.

And it does! There’s a mirror set in the top of the case front.

Pushing in on the raised bit in the center allows you to pop the hinges free. The spring loaded hinge pin is identical to the non-sprung pin.

This means you just slap the spring into the door on the other side, pop the hinge pin in and put the fixed pin in place and relocate the door.

Voila’, the door now hinges to the left!



  • Marc McDaniel

    I know this is a rather old post, but I just purchased a TJ10 for my new
    rig build and was hoping you could elaborate on a couple of things. I
    think it was ingenious the way you were able to install a 360mm rad in
    the top. That res looked good and what a good idea to remove that card support bracket in front of the center fan and place your res there. You said you made the brackets for the rad. Could you tell me exactly how you made them and what you used?
    Also, when you cut out the piece of metal that separates the fans in the top, what did you use? A dremel saw?
    It sure turned out nice and I would like to accomplish the same thing with mine. I’m going with an Asus X99-E-WS and a 5930k. I will also be sticking my two GFX Titans in there too, so I don’t think a 360 would be enough for all 3 of those. May just end up putting a 240 in the top and externally cooling the 2 titans. I will be overclocking the cpu and the cards. Do you think it would be a better to go with a 360 for the cpu, or do you think a 240 would be ok?
    Would really appreciate any advice.
    Thanks, Marc.

    • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

      http://forums.techgage.com/showthread.php?t=1679 I go into greater
      detail about how I made the mounts for the 240mm rad on my TJ09 in that
      thread. I used the same material (although you can use 1″x1″ aluminum
      angle) to put in the 320. Instead of centering the rad in the hole at
      the top I hung the rear back past so the rear tank (the one without the
      barbs) butted up to the case back and the front 120mm fan hung under the
      case roof by about 80mm. Yeah, I used my Dremel to cut out the bar in
      the center of the opening. If I remember correctly I was able to pull
      the mesh insert out of the top of the case.

      If you need any other tips feel free to holler back here, I’m glad to help. My advice on reservoirs, though, is this: never use one with aluminum ends. That one ended up eroding and sending teeny tint bits of aluminum oxide through my loop and it eventually killed my pump. I ended up discarding a res altogether and instead adopted a T-line that I brought through the case roof right between the tanks on the inlet end of the 320.

      Another bit of free advice is to mount your PSU fan up. I didn’t and that mesh is so restrictive that inside a month it’s plugged to the point that your PSU is literally baking. It killed my Ultra X3 1000W and damn near killed my X3 800W before I figured it out. I opted to just pull the bottom mesh off initially but it destroyed that mesh getting it off, it was like they glued it in place. Far easier and less hassle if you just mount it fan up.

      Cheers and good luck!

      • Marc McDaniel

        Thanks Matthew for all the good advice. You’re a veritable goldmine. And thanks for the tip on the psu. I just dropped mine in last night, fan down. Gonna flip that baby over right now! And will do on the 70 cfm fan. And yeah, I just measured the total length of the two fans in the top this afternoon and it was 11 3/16″. Equaling 280mm! And I was wondering about that. Too bad it isn’t a little taller, or maybe had a riser or something. I was checking our that 240 Nexxxos Monsta. 80mm thick. That would be sweet. But I still like your 360 up there. Just gotta make a decision. Thanks again, later.

        • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

          No worries man, glad to help. For what it’s worth, a good 30mm thick 280 rad would suit a CPU only loop just fine. In my eyes, an 80mm thick rad is akin to “ludicrous speed” on Spaceballs. It’s overkill and you’ve reached the point of diminishing returns with anything approaching a sensibly loud fan.

          • Marc McDaniel

            Hi Matthew, another quick question. What size tubing did you go with on this build? Is that 3/8″ or 1/2″ ID? I’ve heard that 3/8″ is easier to work with and want to be able to route it well inside the TJ10. Linus swears buy PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8″ x 5/8″ because he says you can bend it without it kinking. Any thoughts?

          • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

            Marc, I used 7/16″ i.d. 5/8″ o.d. on 1/2″ barbs. It seals great and will do some pretty tight bends without kinking. It’s stuff I got from Petra’s Tech Shop back when they were still around. You can get the same stuff from Frozen CPU for under a buck per foot. It’s a bit of a stretch to fit it on a D5 with stock barbs but with some determination and a great deal of colorful language it will work.

          • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

            The tubing I used is Masterkleer which is a McMaster Carr product. It’s right up there with Tygon at a fraction of the cost. I’ve used PrimoChill and I’m not a fan. It’s silicone tubing as opposed to vinyl and is a bit more porous which means you’ll lose more fluid to osmosis over the same time frame compared to the same wall thickness vinyl tubing. Plus it’s softer and doesn’t grip the barbs as tightly.

    • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

      As to cooling the Titans, I wouldn’t try running the CPU and both GPU’s on a single 360. If you want to cool the GFX cards effectively, pull the mid fan mount (Silverstone has a walkthrough on their site) and replace it with something in the 70CFM range. I suggest a fan that has focused airflow, I went with a Cougar 120HP in mine. Also, pull the mesh out of that fan holder, it’s just choking off the fan. As to 240mm versus 320, a 240 is okay if you’re just running a stock clocked CPU and want to keep it cool quietly, if you’re going to OC you’ll need faster fans (you’re limited to a 30mm thick rad if you want to be able to use the mobo tray with the rad in place) or a bigger rad. You can probably fab up mounts to put a 280mm rad up top and have it fit perfectly fine up top. That opening seems perfect for dual 140mm fans. Indeed, after I stopped water cooling my graphics cards I’d intended to do just that but I never did.

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