SilverStone TJ10 Full Tower

by Matthew Harris on January 15, 2008 in Cases & PSUs

Got a hankering for a new case? Been bit by the water cooling bug? Having a bit of trouble reconciling the two? You should have a look at SilverStone’s TJ10B. Despite the nay-sayers claiming it’s not ideal for water-cooling, you might just be surprised!

Installation Cont.

I’ve decked the halls (I have to get into the spirit since I did this build on Christmas day) with an ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless edition. It’s your normal ATX mobo that uses 9 standoffs to mount but it looks tiny on the TJ10’s oversized mobo tray. See? I told you it was huge!

There’s still a lot of real estate left on used on the front edge of the tray.

A quick test fit shows that even with the unorthodox mounting of the reservoir in the case I still have enough room to utilize a full EATX mobo.

I’d lake to address something here. ASUS is kind enough to include a header to mount your switches and LED wires to so you can slap that onto the mobo as one piece later. With the TJ10 being a slide out mobo tray style case I’d like to see something similar added to the case so that you can unplug the wires for the front panel connectors in one fell swoop rather than messing about with several separate wires.

I’d also like to take a moment to mouch about there being no speaker for the chassis. One word, why? Why not include something like I had to dig through my parts drawer to use here? A small buzzer that hangs off the header would be a nice touch since hardly any motherboards have built in buzzers these days.

I got so tired of wondering if my mobo had posted back when I was using the TJ09, yeah I know it’s no big deal since the video powering on will let you know but if you overclock I’m sure you’ve held your breath waiting for the *beep* that told you that you hadn’t screwed the pooch with that last FSB bump.

Ok, while we’ve been pondering the happiness of case buzzers I snuck around and made the brackets for the radiator. They take up the extra space around the rad beautifully.

There’s a bit of space but it’s not enough to worry about.

This time I went the extra mile and put weatherstripping around the radiator opening so that it’s sealed all the way around not just to the mesh but to the case roof where it overhangs past the opening. This ensures that no heated air will recycle back through the rad. Yeah, I know, I’m a genius. I also cut the piece of metal that had been separating the fans out to give better unimpeded airflow.

The rad tucks nice and neat up into the case roof. When it’s all put together it looks nearly factory.

See? Aside from that fan at the rear hanging down you’d never suspect that there was anything up there. Although I’m going to be adding another pair of fans to the rad.

From the side it’s still pretty low key. Although, once I’ve run all the tubing the whole stealth thing flies right out the window.

There’s even plenty of clearance between the upper stiffening bracket on the mobo tray and the rear fan, an issue that had caused me to ponder a bit.

Pulling the top off without completely removing the case front isn’t much of an issue but if you’ve got to pop the top more than once in an outing then pulling the front is a sensible move. I also found that hidden behind the case front there are four tiny rare earth magnets (two per side) that hold the case door shut by attracting the screws where the hinges mount. As you can see, there’s plenty of room to migrate the USB, Firewire and FP audio ports away from the roof and into the case front.

With the PSU, rad and res in place we see that there’s still an abundance of room. We might lose the upper 5.25" bay but with a short enough drive it’ll still be accessible, you’ll just want to attach the cables out of the front of the case. Remember I mentioned adding the remaining two fans? Even with them in place the rad’s still pretty much a stealthed affair.

And things start looking more like a PC. The CPU block is mounted and plumbed into the GPU’s. Next up is a bit of wiring, adding the pump and finalizing the loop.

Now that the plumbing is pretty much completed it’s a bit more crowded but still workable. I’ve got a few more loose ends to tie up but it’s close to time to fill it up and see what happens.

Now she’s all complete. The plumbing’s all hung in the TJ with care in hopes that a massive overclock soon would be there. All the wiring has been run, the drives mounted and after a few hours of leak testing, chasing and stopping (the barbs on the radiator leaked like a sieve) it’s ready to be closed up, fired up and run.

Yeah, it’s a bit of a rat’s nest but I couldn’t locate all my zip ties and due to the day I was doing the build, procuring more was out of the question.

Of course with no case window your cabling skills are for naught.

The black drives fit in pretty nice with the deep black anodizing. Actually, the case is blacker than the drives are.

I guess I should mention that the TJ10 does come with an optional case window, It’ll really show off all that hardware to it’s fullest and since it’s not a huge window you’re not stuck looking at the drive cages.

  • Marc McDaniel

    I know this is a rather old post, but I just purchased a TJ10 for my new
    rig build and was hoping you could elaborate on a couple of things. I
    think it was ingenious the way you were able to install a 360mm rad in
    the top. That res looked good and what a good idea to remove that card support bracket in front of the center fan and place your res there. You said you made the brackets for the rad. Could you tell me exactly how you made them and what you used?
    Also, when you cut out the piece of metal that separates the fans in the top, what did you use? A dremel saw?
    It sure turned out nice and I would like to accomplish the same thing with mine. I’m going with an Asus X99-E-WS and a 5930k. I will also be sticking my two GFX Titans in there too, so I don’t think a 360 would be enough for all 3 of those. May just end up putting a 240 in the top and externally cooling the 2 titans. I will be overclocking the cpu and the cards. Do you think it would be a better to go with a 360 for the cpu, or do you think a 240 would be ok?
    Would really appreciate any advice.
    Thanks, Marc.

    • Matthew Harris I go into greater
      detail about how I made the mounts for the 240mm rad on my TJ09 in that
      thread. I used the same material (although you can use 1″x1″ aluminum
      angle) to put in the 320. Instead of centering the rad in the hole at
      the top I hung the rear back past so the rear tank (the one without the
      barbs) butted up to the case back and the front 120mm fan hung under the
      case roof by about 80mm. Yeah, I used my Dremel to cut out the bar in
      the center of the opening. If I remember correctly I was able to pull
      the mesh insert out of the top of the case.

      If you need any other tips feel free to holler back here, I’m glad to help. My advice on reservoirs, though, is this: never use one with aluminum ends. That one ended up eroding and sending teeny tint bits of aluminum oxide through my loop and it eventually killed my pump. I ended up discarding a res altogether and instead adopted a T-line that I brought through the case roof right between the tanks on the inlet end of the 320.

      Another bit of free advice is to mount your PSU fan up. I didn’t and that mesh is so restrictive that inside a month it’s plugged to the point that your PSU is literally baking. It killed my Ultra X3 1000W and damn near killed my X3 800W before I figured it out. I opted to just pull the bottom mesh off initially but it destroyed that mesh getting it off, it was like they glued it in place. Far easier and less hassle if you just mount it fan up.

      Cheers and good luck!

      • Marc McDaniel

        Thanks Matthew for all the good advice. You’re a veritable goldmine. And thanks for the tip on the psu. I just dropped mine in last night, fan down. Gonna flip that baby over right now! And will do on the 70 cfm fan. And yeah, I just measured the total length of the two fans in the top this afternoon and it was 11 3/16″. Equaling 280mm! And I was wondering about that. Too bad it isn’t a little taller, or maybe had a riser or something. I was checking our that 240 Nexxxos Monsta. 80mm thick. That would be sweet. But I still like your 360 up there. Just gotta make a decision. Thanks again, later.

        • Matthew Harris

          No worries man, glad to help. For what it’s worth, a good 30mm thick 280 rad would suit a CPU only loop just fine. In my eyes, an 80mm thick rad is akin to “ludicrous speed” on Spaceballs. It’s overkill and you’ve reached the point of diminishing returns with anything approaching a sensibly loud fan.

          • Marc McDaniel

            Hi Matthew, another quick question. What size tubing did you go with on this build? Is that 3/8″ or 1/2″ ID? I’ve heard that 3/8″ is easier to work with and want to be able to route it well inside the TJ10. Linus swears buy PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8″ x 5/8″ because he says you can bend it without it kinking. Any thoughts?

          • Matthew Harris

            Marc, I used 7/16″ i.d. 5/8″ o.d. on 1/2″ barbs. It seals great and will do some pretty tight bends without kinking. It’s stuff I got from Petra’s Tech Shop back when they were still around. You can get the same stuff from Frozen CPU for under a buck per foot. It’s a bit of a stretch to fit it on a D5 with stock barbs but with some determination and a great deal of colorful language it will work.

          • Matthew Harris

            The tubing I used is Masterkleer which is a McMaster Carr product. It’s right up there with Tygon at a fraction of the cost. I’ve used PrimoChill and I’m not a fan. It’s silicone tubing as opposed to vinyl and is a bit more porous which means you’ll lose more fluid to osmosis over the same time frame compared to the same wall thickness vinyl tubing. Plus it’s softer and doesn’t grip the barbs as tightly.

    • Matthew Harris

      As to cooling the Titans, I wouldn’t try running the CPU and both GPU’s on a single 360. If you want to cool the GFX cards effectively, pull the mid fan mount (Silverstone has a walkthrough on their site) and replace it with something in the 70CFM range. I suggest a fan that has focused airflow, I went with a Cougar 120HP in mine. Also, pull the mesh out of that fan holder, it’s just choking off the fan. As to 240mm versus 320, a 240 is okay if you’re just running a stock clocked CPU and want to keep it cool quietly, if you’re going to OC you’ll need faster fans (you’re limited to a 30mm thick rad if you want to be able to use the mobo tray with the rad in place) or a bigger rad. You can probably fab up mounts to put a 280mm rad up top and have it fit perfectly fine up top. That opening seems perfect for dual 140mm fans. Indeed, after I stopped water cooling my graphics cards I’d intended to do just that but I never did.