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SilverStone TJ10 Full Tower
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by Matthew Harris on January 15, 2008 in Full-Tower

Got a hankering for a new case? Been bit by the water cooling bug? Having a bit of trouble reconciling the two? You should have a look at SilverStone’s TJ10B. Despite the nay-sayers claiming it’s not ideal for water-cooling, you might just be surprised!

Temps, Final Thoughts


Now, normally we’d be putting in performance numbers to outline how well the case performed but I’ll forgo that because I ran into some oddities. I tend to use a mixture of Speedfan and Core Temp to obtain my CPU core and case temps but for some reason, Core Temp is broken with the CPU I’m using.

It reports 11°C on core 0 and 5°C on core 1 at idle and under load it reports 25°C on core 0 and 17°C on core 1. Speedfan reports 34°C on the CPU at idle and 61°C under load. None of these numbers jibe particularly well but the case temps hang out at nearly 32°C steady under load or idle. The GPU’s are at 33°C (GPU 1) and 26°C (GPU 2) idle and 38°C (GPU 1) and 46°C (GPU 2) load.

Let’s list the load out since we’re talking about temps at idle and load.

  • SilverStone SST-TJ10B
  • ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
  • AMD A64 X2 4000 Brisbane (65nm) @ 2940Mhz 1.44V Core
  • EVGA 7950 GT Superclocked X 2 @ 636Core / 750Mem
  • OCZ Platinum PC6400 (4-5-4-15) @ DDR2 840 (5-5-5-15)
  • Swiftech Apex Ultra w/ 2 X MCW60 GPU blocks & MCR320QP radiator
  • Swiftech MCW-Ramcool/79 X 2
  • Ultra X3 1000W PSU
  • Seagate 500 Gig 7200.9 SATA II
  • Western Digital 160 Gig SATA
  • Samsung 16X DVD-RW
  • Samsung 16X DVD-ROM
  • Windows MCE 2005

As you can see I’ve managed to pull down a very respectable 40% over clock with a .12V increase in the Vcore. The ram has relaxed timings but it’s 100% stable at 5-5-5-15 whereas when I tried tightening it up it caused me to run into minor issues with certain programs. All told I’m at a loss as to why the temps are being reported like they are.

ASUS PC Probe claims the CPU’s hitting 44°C under load, Speedfan claims it’s hitting 61°C under load and Core Temp says the cores are at 17°C and 23°C under load. I dunno who to believe. I do know that the temps aren’t super hot because the GPU’s aren’t seeing any increase from the heat being dumped into the loop which is something I did encounter with my old system using the very same loop coupled with an MCR220QP and Black Ice Pro II X-Flow.

So let’s see how the SST-TJ10B rates:

    Pros

  • Well built case.
  • Nearly 100% disassembly
  • Held together with screws not rivets
  • Solid as a rock
  • Stylish
  • The door swings both ways! (sorry I couldn’t resist)
    Cons

  • It could use the new fascia to mount the I/O ports and open up a larger roof vent
  • No speaker, I mean really.

All told the TJ10 is a joy to work with, the modular design is fantastic to the modders in the crowd and all the other touches make for a case that’s hard to beat. There are a few niggles but very few and they’re stuff that not everyone would consider to be drawbacks. All told I’m happy to award the TJ10 a 9/10 and our coveted Editor’s Choice Award.

Discuss in our forums!

If you have a comment you wish to make on this review, feel free to head on into our forums! There is no need to register in order to reply to such threads.



Page List:
Top

1. Introduction
2. Interior, Installation
3. Installation Cont.
4. Temps, Final Thoughts


  • Marc McDaniel

    I know this is a rather old post, but I just purchased a TJ10 for my new
    rig build and was hoping you could elaborate on a couple of things. I
    think it was ingenious the way you were able to install a 360mm rad in
    the top. That res looked good and what a good idea to remove that card support bracket in front of the center fan and place your res there. You said you made the brackets for the rad. Could you tell me exactly how you made them and what you used?
    Also, when you cut out the piece of metal that separates the fans in the top, what did you use? A dremel saw?
    It sure turned out nice and I would like to accomplish the same thing with mine. I’m going with an Asus X99-E-WS and a 5930k. I will also be sticking my two GFX Titans in there too, so I don’t think a 360 would be enough for all 3 of those. May just end up putting a 240 in the top and externally cooling the 2 titans. I will be overclocking the cpu and the cards. Do you think it would be a better to go with a 360 for the cpu, or do you think a 240 would be ok?
    Would really appreciate any advice.
    Thanks, Marc.

    • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

      http://forums.techgage.com/showthread.php?t=1679 I go into greater
      detail about how I made the mounts for the 240mm rad on my TJ09 in that
      thread. I used the same material (although you can use 1″x1″ aluminum
      angle) to put in the 320. Instead of centering the rad in the hole at
      the top I hung the rear back past so the rear tank (the one without the
      barbs) butted up to the case back and the front 120mm fan hung under the
      case roof by about 80mm. Yeah, I used my Dremel to cut out the bar in
      the center of the opening. If I remember correctly I was able to pull
      the mesh insert out of the top of the case.

      If you need any other tips feel free to holler back here, I’m glad to help. My advice on reservoirs, though, is this: never use one with aluminum ends. That one ended up eroding and sending teeny tint bits of aluminum oxide through my loop and it eventually killed my pump. I ended up discarding a res altogether and instead adopted a T-line that I brought through the case roof right between the tanks on the inlet end of the 320.

      Another bit of free advice is to mount your PSU fan up. I didn’t and that mesh is so restrictive that inside a month it’s plugged to the point that your PSU is literally baking. It killed my Ultra X3 1000W and damn near killed my X3 800W before I figured it out. I opted to just pull the bottom mesh off initially but it destroyed that mesh getting it off, it was like they glued it in place. Far easier and less hassle if you just mount it fan up.

      Cheers and good luck!

      • Marc McDaniel

        Thanks Matthew for all the good advice. You’re a veritable goldmine. And thanks for the tip on the psu. I just dropped mine in last night, fan down. Gonna flip that baby over right now! And will do on the 70 cfm fan. And yeah, I just measured the total length of the two fans in the top this afternoon and it was 11 3/16″. Equaling 280mm! And I was wondering about that. Too bad it isn’t a little taller, or maybe had a riser or something. I was checking our that 240 Nexxxos Monsta. 80mm thick. That would be sweet. But I still like your 360 up there. Just gotta make a decision. Thanks again, later.

        • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

          No worries man, glad to help. For what it’s worth, a good 30mm thick 280 rad would suit a CPU only loop just fine. In my eyes, an 80mm thick rad is akin to “ludicrous speed” on Spaceballs. It’s overkill and you’ve reached the point of diminishing returns with anything approaching a sensibly loud fan.

          • Marc McDaniel

            Hi Matthew, another quick question. What size tubing did you go with on this build? Is that 3/8″ or 1/2″ ID? I’ve heard that 3/8″ is easier to work with and want to be able to route it well inside the TJ10. Linus swears buy PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8″ x 5/8″ because he says you can bend it without it kinking. Any thoughts?

          • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

            Marc, I used 7/16″ i.d. 5/8″ o.d. on 1/2″ barbs. It seals great and will do some pretty tight bends without kinking. It’s stuff I got from Petra’s Tech Shop back when they were still around. You can get the same stuff from Frozen CPU for under a buck per foot. It’s a bit of a stretch to fit it on a D5 with stock barbs but with some determination and a great deal of colorful language it will work.

          • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

            The tubing I used is Masterkleer which is a McMaster Carr product. It’s right up there with Tygon at a fraction of the cost. I’ve used PrimoChill and I’m not a fan. It’s silicone tubing as opposed to vinyl and is a bit more porous which means you’ll lose more fluid to osmosis over the same time frame compared to the same wall thickness vinyl tubing. Plus it’s softer and doesn’t grip the barbs as tightly.

    • http://Techgage.com/ Matthew Harris

      As to cooling the Titans, I wouldn’t try running the CPU and both GPU’s on a single 360. If you want to cool the GFX cards effectively, pull the mid fan mount (Silverstone has a walkthrough on their site) and replace it with something in the 70CFM range. I suggest a fan that has focused airflow, I went with a Cougar 120HP in mine. Also, pull the mesh out of that fan holder, it’s just choking off the fan. As to 240mm versus 320, a 240 is okay if you’re just running a stock clocked CPU and want to keep it cool quietly, if you’re going to OC you’ll need faster fans (you’re limited to a 30mm thick rad if you want to be able to use the mobo tray with the rad in place) or a bigger rad. You can probably fab up mounts to put a 280mm rad up top and have it fit perfectly fine up top. That opening seems perfect for dual 140mm fans. Indeed, after I stopped water cooling my graphics cards I’d intended to do just that but I never did.

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